Valuing the pipe
How to examine and assign point values to a pipe by Venturi, Inc.
INTRODUCTION
For those of you reading this who are contemplating the pipe as an investment, be warned: you will not make a profit on these pipes. Because so many confirmed briar and meerschaum smokers are not fond of the pipe, it is unlikely to ever have a great following in the collectibles market. I know of only five substantial collections of the pipe and only one of those (mine) is held by someone who smokes only the pipe and has no other pipe collecting interest! There are perhaps a couple of dozen others I know of who have a small collection of pipes for smoking plus a handful of misguided folks who think they can build a collection of these pipes that will appreciate in value. (These are the ones who often overbid on auctions and, after seeing an identical pipe a while later that sells for a tenth what they paid, abandon the project. I have lost count of how many of these poor souls I have seen come and go over the years.)
It is improbable that these pipes will ever rise to prices that remotely approach those for a nineteenth century meerschaum or a high-end briar from the mid-twentieth century. When the current generation of the few smokers who enjoy these pipes is gone, it may well prove out that today's dealers are correct and they will be worthless. Collect for the love of them, not prospective gain. When bidding on eBay or shopping at a pipe show, remember, these pipes are still fairly plentiful and there will be another one just like it or better along shortly. (There were several million made and they are virtually indestructible!) Even un-smoked pipes in original packaging with literature show up regularly. Don't be gulled into paying a lot for one, no matter how rare you or the seller might think it is.
Even so, there are a few fans, this author among them, and the interval of over 25 years since the last pipe was made has caused some color/shape combinations to be difficult to find. Most, if not all, of
the present collectors began with a pipe they liked when they got their first the pipe in the 1960's or 1970's and tried to get another one or two to smoke. Other than those, there are only a handful of folks who collect these pipes for their own sake.
These pipes surface at pipe shows and on the Internet auction sites fairly regularly. At any given large pipe show there usually will be half a dozen or more being offered and the eBay Auction Site may have a dozen or more on any given day. Most pipe smokers and dealers consider these things next to worthless. It is not at all uncommon to find them in the $2 bag or $5 basket on pipe show tables and in a group of damaged pipes and old pipe racks in an auction on eBay. They have an item title like "Nice Pipe Rack with 6 pipes" or "19 used pipes." Since most pipe smokers and dealers consider these things next to worthless, always ask the seller how much he wants for the pipe - often it is priced lower than you estimate.
This guide is designed to help you establish the maximum you want to pay for a pipe, not necessarily its fair value. Also note that this is a guide, not a dogma.
More knowledgeable dealers have become aware that there are a few collectors who will pay more than trash prices for a desirable pipe. However, it is difficult to match the pipe to the collector so prices are still quite reasonable.
WARNING: Auctions can be particularly treacherous because inexperienced bidders can run the price up. Remember, these pipes are still fairly plentiful and there will be another one just like it or better along shortly. If you have some idea as to the value of the pipe, you will not be tempted to overbid, or if you do yield to temptation, at least you will know what you are doing.INTRODUCTION (CONT'D)
This guide will not be satisfactory as a seller's guides for setting prices, although it may be helpful to report the point value of the pipe. If you do choose to report the point value of a pipe you have for sale please identify it as "nn points on the Taylor scale." I recommend starting your auction at $2-10 to attract early bidders. There are some regular purchasers of these pipes who won't participate if the opening bid requirement is not a bargain, although for a pipe that fits several collections well, bids often escalate rapidly.
Most serious collectors use some kind of rating system to decide what a pipe might be worth at a sale, show, or auction. The systems used by briar and meerschaum smokers have great limitations when one attempts to apply them to these quirky pipes.
Try something like this: decide what is the most you would pay for an un-smoked example of a pipe you don't have represented in your collection that came in its complete original packaging with literature and is in perfect condition in every respect. Pipes like this are going to be few and far between, but one must begin somewhere. Then reduce that amount by twenty percent for each deficiency. Apply each reduction in this order: packaging, usage, finish, mouthpiece, shape, color, imprint.
The opposite approach is to build a value using the notion that any pipe worth less than $5 is not going to be attractive to you. Increase that value by a third for each factor in this order: imprint, color, shape, mouthpiece, finish, usage, packaging.
Before you run a pipe through ithe rating system, here are the factors to look for and some guidelines for choosing a rating for each. If you are unsure about any of the items under consideration, always choose the lower point value. Except for SHAPE, the list of choices within each category is from lowest to highest value.
SHAPE
There are nine shapes of the pipe:
Apple
Author
Bent
Billiard
Bulldog
Canadian
Dublin
Pot
Giant Pot
Apple, Bent, Billiard, Bulldog, and Pot are the original five shapes which were offered from the very beginning until the bitter end. They are less valuable than Dublin which entered the lineup at about the same time as colors began being offered in 1967. The Author and Canadian shapes began being offered about 1973 and are even less often seen than Dublin. Offered for only a short while, the Giant Pot is extremely rare and is the most valuable shape of all. The Giant Pot and Pot are identical except that the interior diameter of the tobacco chamber is 7/8" instead of 3/4".
The featherROCK the pipe series came in two shapes:
Blue Ridge
Sierra
THE SMOKE came in four shapes which were called designs:
Berkeley
Graduate
Woodstock
Village
SHAPE (CONT'D)
Venturi pipes were produced in only three shapes: Bent, Billiard, and Pot. Because one shape is no more difficult to find than another, all Venturi and THE SMOKE shapes have equal value.
Hirschl & Bendheim ColorCob and Tar Gard pipes were made in a wide variety of shapes, but, since they do not have bowl liners and were not manufactured nor packaged by Super-Temp, they are only incidental to collectors of the pipe.
IMPRINT
Look for these problems with the imprint on a pipe:
An imprint that is a different color from the rest of the shell is usually caused by a less than meticulous buffing of a colored pipe to black. It also occurs when a pipe is carelessly repainted a different color.
A less than skilled craftsman may wind up with a paint-filled imprint when repainting a pipe.
Infrequent or sloppy cleaning of a pipe may lead to a dirty imprint. If allowed to go too long, this can be very difficult to correct.
The imrprint may not be crisp and clear. This was sometimes a factory problem with Real Briar and Rare Wood the pipe and sometimes is a factor of wear.
Different Color Imprint
Paint-filled Imprint
Dirty Imprint
Imprint Not Crisp
Maximum points are awarded for Imprint is clean, clear, and same color as rest of shell:
the pipe
THE SMOKE
Venturi
the pipe - MADE IN ENGLAND
Luckily all but one of the pipes marketed by Venturi, Inc. in the 60's and 70's are clearly imprinted with the brand's name. The exception is the featherROCK pipes which have no markings at all and must be recognized by the materials and shapes .
COLORS
Venturi pipes were made in five colors (Black, Blue, Green, Red, and White). Other colors from this line have also been found, but those I have seen were apparently repainted later, not original production. A sufficient number of Orange Venturi pipes have been reported to make it possible that it was a color painted at the factory, but I have been unable to acquire any to examine.
THE SMOKE had five colors, Red, Blue, Yellow, Black and White in all four designs and a Gray Graduate has also been discovered.
The featherROCK the pipe series came in three colors - Green, Grey, and Brown.
the pipe came in a wide variety of colors and materials. Before proceeding with the discussion, this important disclaimer must be made. This entire section is the product of the author's own ideas. Although other collectors have been consulted and people involved in the production and marketing of the pipe have been interviewed, they all admit that their whole discussion of the topic is as much speculation as specific recollection. In short, there are no reliable records, only bits and pieces from advertisements, pipe shop catalogs, and the notoriously undated The Story of the pipe inserts in packages of the pipe. The only absolute facts are:
1) Originally the pipe was offered only in Ebony; other colors were added in 1967, some even later.
2) According to the production supervisor of the pipes, the paint method was changed "about halfway through the production" (that would be about 1970) from two-part epoxy paint to acrylic paint.
Visit My Collection to see all the colors presented in tables of colors and shapes.
The first colors offered were called Oyster White, Burnt Orange, Avocado Green, Ash Grey, Federal Gold, and Horizon Blue. Two of these, white and gold, did not change their nomenclature throughout the life of the pipes.
However, different paints and indifferent quality control let to there being at least eight shades of the gold which can be broken into two groups. I call the browner the "old" Federal Gold and the yellower "new" because (1) I have pipes new-in-the box of the yellower shade and they are in the later packaging and (2) I surmise that the change from 2-part epoxy to acrylic paints may account for the difference.
Oyster White has less variability, but ranges from a creamy cast to almost grey.
Burnt Orange has even more shades. And there is at least one box which just says just "Orange" although there is no other documentation for that color name. Presumably, the differences in shade are again more a matter of variations of paint than being different colors.
Avocado Green ranges from almost olive to nearly chartreuse. Apparently another shade of green called Sage Green was offered between 1970 and 1972. It is unlikely that the production sequence of these two green colors will ever be resolved with any degree of certainty. Since neither Author nor Canadian shapes have been found in Sage Green, it is most likely either a temporary replacement for Avocado Green or both colors were offered simultaneously. Dark green pipes have also turned up, but the literature does not document this color at all. At first this color was thought to be added by an owner, but the increasing number of finds makes it almost certain that it was, at some point, a production color. It is impossible to tell if Forest Green (my name for the color) was used in early or late production. Later can be argued because, as Venturi developed, colors were added and changed more rapidly than the literature could be updated. However, earlier can be argued because Author and Canadian shapes have not been found and, like all the certain earlier colors, there are fewer of any shape seen in the Forest Green.
COLORS (CONT'D)
Ash grey was the first shade of grey mentioned as an available color among those in the earliest brochure that mentioned colors. It was never mentioned again in subsequent brochures, being replaced by Morocco Grey which is a lighter shade. The two discernible shades of grey are not easily distinguished unless an example of both are in hand. Morocco Grey in turn disappeared from the literature about 1970.
Horizon Blue, a robin’s egg or very light blue, is in the earliest brochure. It was replaced in the literature almost at once with English Blue, a much darker, richer color, which thenceforward maintained some consistency over the remainder of the production life of the pipe If this theory of color replacement is correct there were never any Canadian or Author shapes made in Horizon Blue because these shapes were introduced after the change from Horizon to English Blue paint colors. Should a pipe be found that proves this incorrect, this color sequence theory will need to be revisited.
The red colors are particularly problematical. The brochure that announces the introduction of colors (1967?) mentions Maroon, but, after a hiatus of several editions, it reappears in what is believed to the last edition as Persian Maroon.
Burgundy Red first appears in a brochure issued around 1973.
A 1969 advertisement says Raspberry is an available color. In the brochures, California Rosé first appears in 1973. It is still unclear whether this is two names for the same color or two colors that appeared sequentially or perhaps even concurrently. There is a discernible difference between the two, although it can be difficult to distinguish them unless they are both in hand.
Pipes painted brown were mentioned in a 1969 advertisement and called Mocha Brown. In pipe catalogs the color was called Tan.
Those same pipe shop catalogs named Melon as an available color, but a very similar color is shown in one of the brochures as Coral. The current thinking is that again we have two names for the same color. Giving the Venturi brochure precedence, I am calling the color Coral. By whatever name, this color is extremely rare. It may be difficult to distinguish between the older Federal Gold, Burnt Orange and Coral if an example of each is not in hand.
The only reference in the literature to Imported Briar pipes with pyrolytic graphite bowl liners is in a 1969 Iwan Reis catalog, and it offers sandblasted models too, although none have been found. There are no references to Rare Wood pipes with bowl liners but we have examples and prototype designs. The kind folks at Venturi and Super-Temp have confirmed that they did indeed make and sell Rare Woods and Real Briar the pipe for a time.
The multicolored "California Style" pipes were marketed at first as having three patterns: Big Sur, Malibu, and San Francisco. However, while some pipes can be categorized, each pipe is truly unique and most do not follow that plan. An irony in collecting these is that they were so unique that quite a few were sold to folks who put them aside un-smoked in original packaging expecting them to appreciate in value. As a result, they are still quite available yet sell for a premium to other, more rare colors!
Another irony in collecting these pipes is that the fairly common colors of Burgundy Red and English Blue bring higher prices than the truly rare colors, such as Coral, Raspberry, the Greys, and Mocha Brown.
FASHION STRIPES
Fashion stripes are all in a color contrasting with the basic color of the shell and circle the top of the bowl. The striping was done by hand (as was the entire paint job for that matter) and the workers were allowed great latitude in applying them. They were called Rally Stripes from 1967-1970, then Fashion Stripes. Some distributors called them Racing Stripes. At first, they were offered only as white stripes on Burnt Orange or orange stripes on white, gold and black Pot and Billiard shapes. Fashion Stripes of many colors eventually were offered on Burgundy Red, Maroon (Persian Maroon), Burnt Orange, English Blue, Ebony, Federal Gold, Oyster White and perhaps Coral in Bent, Billiard, Bulldog, Canadian, and Pot shapes. Venturi took great pride in announcing "All stripes hand-painted originals -- no two alike". Here are some of the variations.
The last example is the All-American (sometimes called Americana) striping pattern. It is two red alternating with two blue stripes on an Oyster White pipe. These All-American pipes are the only known thoroughly consistent pattern of striping and were offered on all five shapes that were striped.
It is unlikely that any collector will ever achieve the goal of having an example of all the possible combinations. Some collectors place a premium on striped pipes, some think them worth less.
Bulldogs were sometimes made with the top half of the bowl in a contrasting color. These were called Buff Designs.
.
Regardless of the pattern, there are two factors that would make a striped pipe less valuable to a collector. First is that the paint is damaged:
Second is that the stripes were unevenly applied:
MOUTHPIECE
Mouthpiece lip and/or bit crushed.
Mouthpiece bitten through
Mouthpiece several deep tooth indentations
Mouthpiece badly oxidized.
Mouthpiece severely scratched or gouged
Mouthpiece few tooth indentations or other minor damage.
Mouthpiece replaced with wrong length and/or shape. Replacement mouthpieces may be a correct fit and design in which case it is impossible to distinguish them from originals. On the other hand, a replacement mouthpiece may not have the o-ring groove on the tenon or will be too long or too short or, with Author and Bent and all THE SMOKE, will not have the correct bend. One can assume a replacement mouthpiece if other use and wear factors show that it is unlikely to be original. See below for original mouthpiece specifications.
Mouthpiece many light toothmarks, no indentations
Mouthpiece minor damage unrelated to tooth-marks. Same as "severely scratched or gouged" only less so.
Mouthpiece few light toothmarks, no indentations. Same as "many light toothmarks" only less so.
Mouthpiece missing o-ring
Original mouthpiece in new condition. Original mouthpiece lengths are measured in inches from the joint of the shank to the tip of the lip on the underside of the mouthpiece:
Apple, Author, Billiard and Bulldog - 2.7
Bent - 2.5
Canadian - 2.0
Dublin - 3.0
Pot and Giant Pot - 2.6.
FINISH
The finish of the pipe is also important, but more important for Ebony or Oyster White than for, say, Raspberry or Mocha Brown. Even some pipe shop pipes that have never been smoked often show some paint damage from being in a drawer or whatever. The more chips and scratches, the less a collector would want to pay for a pipe. Some colors seem to be more fragile than others and perfect specimens are difficult to find. There are too many flaw combinations possible to present them all here, but these are examples of the most extreme as well as an example of the basic descriptors. These pipes are nearly indestructible, but once in a great while a broken pipe turns up. I have never been able to break one myself, but, if running over them with a car and sitting on one carried in the hip pocket don't count, I haven't really tried.
Broken shell or other major damage.
What appears to be a scratch ...
is actually a split shell and liner.
Paint over half gone. This would also be the selection for a re-painted pipe. There are four places to look for signs that the pipe has been repainted.
First is that the logo is paint filled. See above under IMPRINT.
Second, if the top of the bowl liner is painted it may well be an improvement made by an owner who decided that he would prefer a beautiful new finish to a chipped or scratched one.
Note that THE SMOKE pipes rim tops generally were painted although, occasionally, the Berkeley, Graduate and Village shapes were not painted on the top surface of the rim. Apparently this is not a defect, just a different painting approach.
Third, if the paint is chipped, inspect the underlying color. If it is any color other than black, the pipe has been repainted.
Of course, a careful craftsman will buff off all the old paint before applying a new finish so this is not a positive indicator.
Finally, remove the mouthpiece and look inside the mortise of the shank.
If you see signs of a different color of paint then you are probably looking at a repainted pipe.
A smoker might prefer a repainted pipe, but a collector should prefer some damage to the paint over a repainted pipe.
There are an infinte number of possible combinations of scratches and chips. By way of definition ...
this is a scratch ...
and this is a chip.
FINISH (CONT'D)
It is largely a matter of personal preference and perception as to which of the combinations of chips and scratches one chooses. The important thing is that the choices are in order from lowest to highest points and it is probably the wisest course to err on the side of lower point values, especially when trying to value a pipe from photographs, such as on eBay for example.
Some of the other flaws one might notice in the finish.
Paint stained or discolored. White pipes especially may have nicotine stains that cannot be removed. Or, as in this case, improper soaking has caused the paint to become uneven.
"Chigger bites" around the edge of the rim.
Dulled or worn finish. Also often caused by too aggressive soaking. Compare to the red and maroon pipes shown with Fashion Stripes above.
Shop-worn new pipe. Little nicks and abrasions caused by careless storage in a pipe shop drawer.
This is what you're looking for - a factory fresh finish.
LINER
Worst, of course, is a missing bowl liner or one which has separated from the shell.
The pipe looks OK but ...
pull on the bowl liner and ...
the liner comes out!
Liner interior scraped and damaged.
Liner interior scratched.
Liner rim has more than two nicks.
The next several choices are self-explanatory.
The degree of use can sometimes be judged by the amount of residue left on the rim. It is difficult to remove and often leaves abrasions if over-done.
The pyrolytic graphite liner in an un-smoked pipe has a silvery sheen that, once heated, disappears and cannot be restored. (I have seen it tried by rubbing a pencil or graphite on the liner after it has been cleaned up but that wipes off with a swipe of the finger.) If that silvery sheen is not present or wipes off, the pipe has been smoked at least once. There are also usually some little rough spots on an un-smoked liner that will burn off with the first or second use and cannot be restored.
